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Automotive Fasteners Suppliers serving Illinois
Aircraft fasteners work best for aircraft needs, especially for anything that keeps you in the air. Certain automotive fasteners may work better for specialty interior items, but otherwise, AN nuts, bolts, washers, cotter pins, screws, and rivets bought from a reputable aviation vendor are best.
Maintenance time presents the owner with a new opportunity to consider the value of aviation hardware installed to aviation standards. This is the time to take a hard look at any deficiencies in that regard and bring them up to snuff. If you need it to keep you in the air, you should not be buying it at your local hardware store or home center.
Grade 8 bolts, such as you may find at the hardware store, are not equal to AN aircraft bolts. They may have the same gold color, but the composition of the metal and other important specifications are not the same. A good way to tell a grade eight bolt from an AN bolt is to look at the length of the threads. The threaded portion of an AN bolt is typically much shorter and the markings on the head are different. Grade 8 bolts are not equivalent to aircraft bolts.
Note the much shorter threaded portion on the AN bolt. There are some specialty bolts that you may come across for special applications. AN, AN, and similar bolts are available with actual diameters that produce a close tolerance or zero-clearance fit.
NAS bolts have extra strength. If your aircraft design calls for one of these special bolts, do not be tempted to substitute a regular bolt in its place.
Bolts need to be replaced when their plating has worn off, when it becomes at all difficult to thread on a nut, or when there is any damage to the unthreaded grip area. Not more than four threads should project beyond the end of a standard AN nut. This nut with six threads showing is bottomed out on the shank of an AN4 bolt. This situation could easily lead to a failure of the bolt or the item being secured. Nuts and bolts work together as a team to take on many different tasks, but these different tasks often require different kinds of nuts.
The basic aircraft nut is the AN stop nut. Look-alikes are often available at your favorite hardware store, but they are not the same. A thin version for use where the bolt is in shear carries the designation AN They should not be used where there is any load that tends to pull the bolt along its length. The two nuts on the left are MS nuts; the others are AN nuts. In areas where temperatures are high, such as firewall-forward installations, it is better to use an all-metal AN stop nut.
As an alternative you can also use the less common MS nut. These nuts are smaller but develop the same strength as the AN nuts.
The torque used to overcome the drag of the locking insert does nothing to tighten the nut you are using. Here are some drag numbers derived from testing a number of new stop nuts.
While it is certainly true that you should replace any stop nut that can be turned by hand, it is also true that the locking insert needs to apply a lot more drag than that, especially for larger nuts. Most people cannot exert more than about 5 inch-pounds of torque with their bare hand. The real rule is that you should replace a stop nut whenever there is a reduction in the drag or locking power of the nut.
Unfortunately, there is a reduction in drag every time you reuse a stop nut. The practical answer is, do not reuse stop nuts for critical installations, and replace other stop nuts whenever there is a noticeable reduction in drag as you tighten the nut.
The bottom line is that nuts are cheap, but the trouble they can cause if they fail may be quite costly. Castle nuts are best for any application where there is going to be rotation, such as this Cub aileron control. Be sure that the down-side tail of the cotter pins does not interfere with the rotation and that the up-side tail extends to at least the center of the bolt being secured.
Castle nuts work best on bolts where there is possible rotation such as on control linkages. The standard castle nut is the AN, but a thin shear-only version called AN is also available. Castle nuts obviously require cotter pins to work properly.
When tightening castle nuts, always start by applying the minimum torque and then tighten to line up the cotter pin hole with the slots in the nut. Cotter pins secure castle nuts or clevis pins. For clevis pins the cotter pin is typically wrapped around the sides of the pin, but with castle nuts the cotter pin folds up around the end of the bolt. Cotter pins are usually installed with the legs of the cotter pin perpendicular to the axis of clevis pins but parallel to the axis of bolts.
The legs of the cotter pin should extend to at least the centerline of the clevis pin as they wrap around the end. In a nut-and-bolt installation, the top leg of the cotter pin should wrap over the end of the bolt to at least the centerline of the bolt, and the bottom leg should be cut off just short of flush with the bottom surface of the castle nut.
Cotter pins should in all cases be regarded as non-reusable. Another handy nut is the AN check nut or jam nut, which also comes in a thin version, designated AN These nuts work by jamming another nut or threaded clevis when you tighten them against each other. Jam nuts also work well to remove threaded studs. Anchor nuts or nut plates work really well for places where it is going to be difficult to access the bolt and the nut at the same time for maintenance or repairs.
On the left are some K fixed anchor nuts, and on the right are some F floating anchor nuts. In areas where access to the nut is restricted or merely inconvenient, an anchor nut or nut plate can solve the problem. These come in a variety of shapes and sizes, some of the more common ones being the K fixed anchor nut and the F floating anchor nut. All anchor nuts should be replaced as soon as their locking action begins to be compromised. They do not have an infinite life. All nuts should have a minimum of one complete thread exposed beyond the end of the nut, but no more than four threads exposed.
With too many threads showing, it is likely that the nut is bottoming out on the end of the threads, rather than the item being held together by the nut and bolt. For a bolt to produce the holding force for which it was designed it must be properly tightened. Use these values unless the manufacturer of the item in question specifies something else. Please note that engine and propeller manufacturers will always have recommended torques for nuts and bolts used to assemble and install their products.
Be sure to consult them for the proper torque values and do not rely on generic tables. Another important point regarding torque numbers is that generic tables provide torques for clean, dry no oil or anti-seize compound nuts and bolts. Lubricants and anti-seize compounds will alter the tightness of nuts and bolts tightened to any particular torque value. One last point on torques. You will notice on the generic torque tables that there are two values listed for each bolt diameter and thread combination—one for shear and one for tension.
The shear value assumes the use of a shear thin nut such as an AN nut and that the bolt has a load that is perpendicular to its length, in other words, the load is trying to shear the bolt in two. This will be a lower value than the tension value because the thin shear nut has less ability to hold a load. The tension values will be based on using AN or other similar tension or standard nuts.
In addition to the shear and tension values, there will be separate tables for values for fine and course threads. Standard AN bolts have fine threads, thus the fine thread values should be used. Be sure to use the correct torque for the nut and bolt you are tightening. You should always be able to start the threads of a nut or bolt by hand. If you cannot, you need to find out why. Undamaged threads should easily engage and begin to turn until they hit the stop portion of the nut.
The best solution to hard-starting nuts and bolts is usually to simply replace them, but there are times when this could be extremely difficult or expensive. There are taps and dies made just for restoring threads that are designed not to remove material but to merely straighten it. These are often called rethreading or thread chasing taps and dies. A serious mechanic should invest in a set of these tools for the more common aircraft sizes. Thread chasing taps and dies left are best for repairing threads.
Machinist taps and dies right are for cutting new threads. They are different tools for different jobs. Even when using the proper thread restoration tools, care should be taken when working on nut plates or anchor nuts. You must never cut into the anchor part of the threads. This will destroy the locking feature and make the part worthless. Always inspect fasteners before reusing them to avoid causing harm to undamaged parts. And remember, whenever possible simply replace any fastener that has any damage to its threads.
Big problems often start when mechanics try to simply push their way through little problems. The standard aircraft washer is the AN flat washer. ANL washers are one-half the thickness of standard washers. Use aluminum washers against aluminum surfaces and steel washers against steel surfaces.
If it does, it is time to get a shorter bolt. Use a large AN washer over rod ends such as this throttle linkage to protect against the rod end failing and coming completely off the bolt. For applications requiring a large diameter washer, the AN fills the bill. Tinnerman washers come in handy when placing screws through fiberglass, and finishing washers make for a neater installation of interior items.
Internal star lock washers MS are commonly found on Lycoming exhaust systems. They fit between the AN washer and the nut.
These lock washers are single-use items.
Need Hard to Find Industrial Fasteners? Thumb nuts and wing nuts can be adjusted by hand. A nut is a type of fastener with a threaded hole. Heavy trucks and buses and some light trucks use a two-piece flange nut or swiveling lug nut Fig.
Split Nut Fastener. Air Inc carries a wide variety of slide in t-nuts that are designed to slide into slots without hassle when compared to the typical square tee nuts. The function of the disposable split sleeve is to reduce mandrel pull force, ensure correct radial expansion of the hole, preclude damage to the hole, and allow one-sided processing. I've realized over the years that most people just don't know some very basic stuff when it comes to constructing their exercise programs. Split rings are lightweight fasteners used to attach and hold small accessories, such as hang tags, chains and lanyards.
Use our thorough list of fastener manufacturers and suppliers in Ontario to examine and sort top fastener manufacturers with previews of ads and detailed descriptions of each product. Any fastener manufacturers can provide fastener products to meet your company's specific qualifications. An easy connection to reach fastener manufacturers through our fast request for quote form is provided as well. This source is right for you whether it's for metal fasteners, plastic fasteners, or any other fastener needs. Oure core competences include fastening elements, application engineering and consulting services, and logistics solutions. Our fasteners are used by small engine, power tools, electronics and machinery industries.
Provide Feedback. Custom manufacturer of fasteners for automotive applications. Various products available include washers, screws, anchors, rivets, inserts, holders, bolts, studs and plugs. Stainless steel, alloy steel, brass, aluminum, copper, phenolic, polycarbonate, acetyl, polyethylene, polypropylene, polystyrene and PVC materials used. Available in various sizes. Assembly, welding, riveting, plating, reaming, deburring and other additional services offered. Prototype and production can be done with 1 to 1,, units. AutoCAD files are accepted. RoHS compliant. On-time delivery.
Choose your fasteners and fixings from the catalog groups. Clicking takes you to the e-Shop, where you will find more detailed product information. CAD Online Portal. Electrical Products.
Filters Units US Metric Material Stainless steel Zinc plated steel Hot dipped galvanized steel Chrome plated steel Brass Silicon bronze Nylon Grade Stainless. Hardened steel US. Hardened steel Metric. US numbered. US fractional. US Fasteners Wood screws Screws with a smooth shank and tapered point for use in wood. Sheet metal screws Screws with large threads for use in sheet metal sometimes also used in plastic, fiberglass, or wood. Hex bolts Bolts with hexagonal heads and machine threads for use with a nut or in a tapped hole. Also known as hex cap screws or machine bolts.
Split Nut Fastener
Dome Cap Washer. Our screws come in a variety of materials, such as aluminum or stainless steel, in a wide range of finishes. Our store supplies the best quality Ford automotive retainer clips for whatever your repair project may be. Cords Canada Catalogue. Two piece cap and washer design. Washer will not spray rinse. Dome washer has semispherical shaped top.
Types of Bolts, Nuts, and Washers | A Complete Guide on Fasteners
Provide Feedback. Custom manufacturer of fasteners for automotive, marine, medical, food and beverage industries. Made from aluminum, steel, stainless steel, brass, bronze, copper, plastic and other materials. Types include bolts, pins, screws, nails, nuts, rivets, studs and washers. Capabilities include CNC or screw machining, milling, drilling, boring, turning, threading, tapping, knurling, broaching and cutting. Suitable for construction, valve, hydraulic and plumbing applications. Prototype to short run and low to high production volume is available. Capable of Kanban manufacturing. JIT delivery. Custom manufacturer of industrial fasteners including shims and spacers.
Rivets, Pins and Studs
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Fasteners come in many different forms. Scroll down to learn about many different types of nuts, bolts and screws! Screws use their threads to provide their own holding power.
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